Last updated on June 27th, 2023 at 03:22 pm

Once it was decided we were going to Japan, I knew I wasn’t returning without seeing a Geisha. Call me a stalker, but I looked up where to find a Geisha in Japan before figuring out our itinerary. I couldn’t let go of this opportunity to finally see the protagonist of my teenage favorite novel Arthur Golden’s, Memoirs of Geisha. No matter how disturbing that book was in parts, there was a charisma about them that I dreamt of experiencing in person.

Related: Interesting facts about Japan that you should know before going

It was recommended that your chances of spotting a Geisha in Kyoto were higher at sunset, i.e. when a geisha is walking to the teahouses to begin her workday. That tip yielded no luck for us. However, I won’t discourage you from going at sunset. I will, however, share the details on how we were able to see them in Gion.

A geisha’s exclusivity adds to their mystery, so the biggest tip is to be patient if you want to really see one. 

PS: Geisha spotting can be fun but please make sure to respect their privacy at all times. Ask them politely if you want a photo with them and do not be pushy if they refuse.

Difference between a Geisha, Maiko, and a Geiko

Before we jump into our adventures, let us clear some common misconceptions –

Who is a Geisha? 

She is an artist and an entertainer who has mastered the art of traditional Japanese dance & music. Her delicate moves, soft voice, and remarkable beauty have been known to cast magical effects on her clients or guests who are typically men. 

So then who is a Maiko? 

Maikos are trainees who are learning the art form of singing, dancing & music under an experienced artist known as a Geisha. Maikos are also much younger in age, sometimes even young children. Usually, by the age of 20, after their training is completed they graduate to become a geisha.

Both Maikos and Geishas wear traditional makeup on their faces, but only Maikos wear elaborate kimonos and decorative ornaments on their heads, as you can see in the photos below. Another key difference is their hair – Maikos style their own hair in traditional buns whereas Geishas usually wear a wig. 

FUN FACT: In Kyoto, a Geisha is referred to as Geiko, whereas in Tokyo and other parts of Japan they are called Geishas. All of this was something we learned on our Japan trip. 

Tips on where to see a Geisha in Gion, Kyoto

Coming straight to the point why you are reading this post, here’s how you can see geishas in Japan without breaking a bank –

1. OUTSIDE TEAHOUSES IN Hanamikoji-Dori 

I recommend heading to Gion’s popular street called “Hanamikoji-Dori” and its intersection with Shijo-Dori for the highest chance of seeing a geisha. Just Google it if it’s difficult to find. As you walk on Hanamikoji-Dori towards Gion Corner you will pass an array of tea houses. These are old established Ochayas where Geishas and Maikos perform for their clients or guests.  

Related: How to spend 3 fun days in Kyoto

We struck gold on one of our post-dinner walks when I froze after seeing a bunch of tourists huddled outside one of the teahouses. That teahouse happened to be the only one with a blinking taxi waiting at the entrance.

It almost looked like those people were waiting for a bus except it wasn’t a bus stop. Not to digress but people in Japan stand in neat lines at bus stops. So that was our cue. No, not the bus stop but the group of people waiting. This is usually my technique of spotting a bear at National Parks in the US too. If there are a bunch people stopped at a random location in the park, chances of spotting a wild animal is higher. I do digress!

Fifteen minutes and no sight of a Geisha later, Gaurav speculated a fake plot. His claim was that a Maiko/Geisha would probably be exiting from the back. Now, that could’ve been quite plausible considering Maikos and Geishas do like to move away from public eye.

But I wasn’t going anywhere until that black taxi left.

Lo and Behold, we heard chatter growing inside the teahouse. Minutes later an entire movie scene unfolded in front of us. Luck was in our favor that night. 

The owner of the teahouse, I am assuming, came running out as her guests were leaving. But no signs of a Maiko.

As Gaurav rolled his eye, my excitement was on a high. Again, I wasn’t going anywhere till the black taxi left.

Patience does pay off. 

This little missy came out giggling and flirting with two men. They definitely must be used to paparazzi since she acted as if no one was watching her. Although we weren’t right in her face, we were across a very narrow street. 

After bidding her farewell, the Maiko disappeared in a matter of seconds. And I am left wondering, how in the heavens are they able to walk so swiftly in those high wooden heels.

2. GION CORNER

The best part of this story is that it’s not over yet. Next day we decided to watch a show at Gion Corner. It is a theater for Japanese art performances where we got to see a Maiko dance performance. TIP: Gion Corner is definitely an affordable alternative to experiencing a geisha or maiko dance performance than breaking your bank for a private audience. What’s more, you get to see many other Japanese traditional artforms during your time here.

After the show, I saw our Maiko trying to sneak out of the theater just when a lady stopped her for a photo. Now, remember this, Geishas and Maikos won’t usually stop for pictures with tourists. Their time is worth way more inside teahouses than with us. So the fact that she obliged was a big thing!

Thrilled to see that she was okay with photos, I was pumped to take one myself. But seeing her getting smothered by the crowd made me feel bad to ask her. So a selfie with the maiko in the background seemed legit to record this moment.

But I guess, my lack of selfie talent and her inability to say no to people found a bonding moment. Next thing I know as I smiled at my phone’s front camera there was another face smiling behind me. As creepy as it was, I only had a few seconds to make this photo happen. And then she disappeared in the darkness of the street.

3. Pontocho Alley

Another popular street to spot a geisha is Pontocho Alley in Gion across the river Kamo. It is also a great spot to grab a local bite and drink in age-old Izakayas. Since our accommodation was in Gion, we decided to take another late evening stroll before calling it a night.

Sure enough, as we were walking back to our hotel we spotted a few more Maikos on Hanamikoji-Dori and some of its perpendicular bylanes. We even saw a real geiko that night.

On a side note, you will chance upon girls dressed up in Yukatas walking around in Gion during the day. A yukata is made of cotton as opposed to a Kimono (see below) which is made of heavier silk, They are not Geishas! So don’t be fooled, rather rent one yourself if you want to experience the Japanese traditional clothing.

I really wish I had done that now.  There are plenty of places renting them in Kyoto but here’s where you can rent a Kimono in Tokyo. 

Bottom line, we were successful in seeing Geishas and Maikos in Gion two nights in a row. TIP: Our advice would be to go out and explore during sunset but if you don’t see them return to Hanamikoji-Dori between 9.30 pm -10 pm. This is usually the time when guests of Maikos are leaving and so are they. 

After having seen a Geisha one of my two wishes for Japan came true (happy dance!). The other one of seeing Fuji San was washed away by bad weather, perhaps we might get lucky another time. And that next time I’m might also consider climbing Mt. Fuji instead of simply seeing it from afar. 🙂

Hope you enjoyed reading our experiences and got some tips to see a Geisha and Maiko in Kyoto. If you have seen one before then we’d love to hear your experience in the comments!

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Happy Traveling!